Moss Stitch Christmas Stocking – Crochet Pattern

Moss Stitch Christmas StockingsI wanted to add a personal touch to my Christmas pictures. I set up a formal Christmas tree, wrapped some fake presents, and decorated the mantel. I decided the extra special touch would be stockings that I crocheted myself. I did two in a cable stitch pattern that I bought in a Christmas Crochet Pattern book. One in an off white and one in a red. I needed four, but I didn’t want them all to be the same. I love the Moss stitch or Linen stitch texture, so I thought it’d be great to create a couple with this texture. Thus came the pattern below. Enjoy!

Materials:
– 2 skeins of worsted weight yarn. (I used Lionbrand Vanna’s Choice)
– Size E (3.5mm) Crochet Hook
– Size H (5.0mm) Crochet Hook

Size:
17″ long x 5 ½” wide

Abbreviations:
ch = Chain
sp(s) = space(s)
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = Slip Stitch
sk = Skip

sc = Single Crochet
sc2tog = Single Crochet 2 Together
hdc = Half Double Crochet
dc = Double Crochet
blo = Back Loop Only
RS = Right Side
WS = Wrong Side
FO = Finish Off

Special Stitches:
DSC_8612_ps_LDC_YouTubeLogoLDCLong Double Crochet Linen Stitch: Work a double crochet (dc) in the st indicated one row below the previous row worked. This stitch will be worked around the previous row worked. (Also see Extended Moss Stitch)

Stocking:

Cuff:
With 3.5mm hook, ch 16
Row 1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook and each st across, ch 1, turn. (15)Moss Stitch Christmas Stockings
Row 2-46: hdc in BLO of each st across, ch 1, turn. (15)
Fold in half and sl st short ends of cuff together to form a tube. Do not fasten off, continue in round to leg.

Leg:
Round 1: Working along the edge of the tube, sc in the end of each row around. Join, ch 1, turn. (46)
Round 2: Change to 5.0mm hook. hdc in each sc around. Join, ch 2, turn. (46)
Round 3: hdc in each st around. Join, ch 3, turn. (46)
Round 4: (ch 3 of prev round counts as dc, ch 1), sk st *dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st* repeat around. Join, ch 1, turn. (46)
Round 5-38: Ldc in sk st below the next ch sp, ch 1, sk next st, *Ldc in sk st below the next ch sp, ch 1, sk next st* repeat around. Join, ch 1, turn. (46)

Heel:
Row 1: *Ldc in sk st below the next ch sp, sc in next st* repeat 10 times, ch 1, turn. (20)
Row 2: sc 12, ch 1, turn. (12)
Row 3: sc 4, ch 1, turn. (4)
Row 4: sc 4, sc in next st on Row 1, ch 1, turn. (5)
Row 5: sc 5, sc in next st on Row 2, ch 1, turn. (6)
Row 6: sc 6, sc in next st on Row 1, ch 1, turn. (7)
Row 7: sc 7, sc in next st on Row 2, ch 1, turn. (8)
Row 8: sc 8, sc in next st on Row 1, ch 1, turn. (9)
Row 9: sc 9, sc in next st on Row 2, ch 1, turn. (10)
Row 10: sc 10, sc in next st on Row 1, ch 1, turn. (11)
Row 11: sc 11, sc in next st on Row 2, ch 1, turn. (12)
Row 12: sc 12, sc in next st on Row 1, ch 1, turn. (13)
Row 13: sc 13, sc in next st on Row 2, ch 1, turn. (14)
Row 14: sc 14, sc in next st on Row 1, ch 1, turn. (15)
Row 15: sc 15, sc in next st on Row 2, ch 1, turn. (16)
Row 16: sc 16, sc in next st on Row 1, ch 1, turn. (17)
Row 17: sc 17, sc in next st on Row 2, ch 1, turn. (18)
Row 18: sc 18, sc in next st on Row 1, ch 1, turn. (19)
Row 19: sc 19, sc in next st on Row 2. Ldc in sk st below the next ch sp on Row 38, ch 1, sk next st. *Ldc in sk st below the next ch sp, ch 1, sk next st* repeat 12 times, ch 1, turn. (46)

Foot:
Round 1: *Ldc in sk st below the next ch sp, ch 1, sk next st* repeat 13 times, *dc in next st on heel, ch 1, sk next st* repeat 10 times. Join, ch 1, turn. (46)
Round 2-18: *Ldc in sk st below the next ch sp, ch 1, sk next st* repeat around. Join, ch 1, turn. (46)
Round 19: *Ldc in sk st below the next ch sp, sc in next st* repeat around. Join, ch 1, turn. (46)

Toe:
Round 1: sc around, join, ch 1, turn. (46)
Round 2: sl st in each st around, join, ch 1, do not turn. (46)
Round 3: ch 1, sc in each BLO around, join, ch 1, turn. (46)
Round 4-5: ch 1, sc in both loops around, join, ch 1, do not turn. (46)
Round 6: sc 6, *sc2tog, sc 6* repeat around. Join, ch 1. (41)
Round 7: sc 1, sc 5, *sc2tog, sc 5* repeat around. Join, ch 1. (36)
Round 8: *sc 4, sc2tog* repeat around. Join, ch 1. (30)
Round 9: *sc, sc2tog* repeat around. Join, ch 1. (20)
Round 10: *sc2tog* repeat around. Join, ch 1. (10)
Round 11: *sc2tog* repeat around. Join. FO. Leave a long tail to sew toe closed. (5)

Hanging Loop:
ch 25, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. FO. Leave long tail to sew to stocking. Sew to Row 1 of leg at center back.

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21 comments

  1. bantal silikon says:

    Good site you have here.. It’s hard to find high-quality writing like yours nowadays. I honestly appreciate people like you! Take care!!|

  2. Lori says:

    I am currently working on this pattern. I am having trouble with the heel. My problem is it says to join on row 2 and row 3. Am I joining to close a circle like on the leg. I have tried it a couple times.

    • Heather Boyer says:

      I’m sorry, that is my error! The heel is worked in rows, therefore, does not need to be joined. Just ch 1 and turn at the end of each row. An additional stitch is added each time across on row 1 and row 2 of the heel until it includes all 20 stitches the heel started out with. This will give it its curve. I hope this helps! Thank you for asking!

  3. Laila says:

    Thank you! This is a wonderful pattern! I don’t know when I’ve enjoyed following a pattern so much! Thank you so much for sharing and the very clear instructions. I am crocheting this for my daughter’s unborn child to fill with little things she will need when the baby is here next spring. It will be the start of a new tradition in our family.

    I have one question. I am doing this in red, with the cuff, heel, and toe in white. When working the toe, I am struggling with catching the BLO of the previous row’s slip stitch on round three. It’s just too tight for me to grab, and I’ve pulled this out to try again three times. Is there a specific purpose of the slip stitch in that row? It does appear to make a nice transitional decrease to the toe. I don’t want to change it’s look significantly, but may need to change that row to single crochet, perhaps reverting back to the smaller hook.

  4. Bianca Alicia says:

    I wonder if this pattern would work with variegated yarn and color pooling. I saw a picture of a stocking someone made with a beautiful argyle look.

  5. Kim says:

    I need help with the cuff. Do you stich together then fold in half, when SC crochet around do you go through both layers? Can you add a picture?
    Thank you

    • Heather Boyer says:

      You sl st the short ends of the cuff together so they form a circle. I usually work the stitches in one loop from one side and one loop from the other side so that it still has the ribbing texture.

  6. Bailey says:

    THANK YOU for creating a gorgeous Christmas Stocking pattern! I have been searching and searching for a pattern that I liked and I stumbled upon yours on pinterest. It was very easy to create and follow your pattern. I’m very pleased with my end result!! Can’t wait to create more for my family.

  7. Riley Barger says:

    For the leg, it says it’s worked in rounds but also says to turn after each round. Does this form the texture? I’ve just switched over to the leg and wasn’t sure if I needed to turn even though it says it’s worked in the round.

  8. Sammie says:

    Hello. I am working on the leg. Two questions: Do I join at the chain 1 from previous round? Do the sl st and chain 1 count as two independent stitches to get to 46 total stitches for each round?

    • Heather Boyer says:

      The ch 1 and sl st do not count as stitches, you would join to the top of the first actual stitch. There are 46 stitches around for the leg because a stitch is worked into the end of each row from the cuff of which there are 46 rows to the cuff.

  9. Deborah Adams says:

    I am currently working on the heel. Do you not join on row 1? I didn’t, but am confused because I have a gap there on row 1 of the foot when I join.

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